mattersofthemoment

Now that we have been home more than a week, we have some further thoughts on our recent Avalon Waterways European river cruise vs. the previous ocean cruises that we have taken.

If you are looking for sightseeing, a river cruise is excellent for that.  If you are looking for relaxation, we would recommend an ocean cruise.

We say this for a number of reasons:

1. The river ship has limited facilities and space.  E.g., there was a single hot tub on the Avalon Artistry II that was rarely open.  The clearance restriction below the low bridges on the Main River necessitated its continuous closure.  The whole sky (top outdoor) deck was closed most of the time for similar safety reasons.  Hence if you stayed back on the ship rather than go ashore, there was very little to do.
2. We all ate at the same time for dinner.  There is little flexibility as there is only a single service.  While we always had good seats and service, there was always a rush of folks to get to their favorite table which we found a bit nerve-racking at times.
3. We opted for the Cat D cabin without the floor to ceiling windows which slid open.  We found the cabin too small for 2 people at 172 sq. ft.  Our friends the Clarke’s invited us to their Cat C “balcony” cabin and it felt much more spacious at 200 sq. ft..
4. River cruises are naturally port intensive.  Every day we had one and sometimes two excursions lasting 2 to 3 hours.  There was a lot of walking up and down stairs and hills and usually on cobblestones.  It was exhausting!  We were amazed at the stamina of our fellow guests, many several years older than we are (mid sixties).  However by the end of the week, I think it is safe to say we were all pretty exhausted and in need of some down time!
5. The excursions run on a tight schedule.  Bathroom breaks could be as much as 2 hours apart.  Furthermore, if you did not have coins for entry, you would start to panic.  There was little accommodation for people with mobility issues.
6. The ocean cruise ships by their nature have many more public spaces, more flexibility in dining time (usually) and more “sea-days” to unwind, enjoy the ship and simply relax.
7. The 45 locks or so we went through became repetitive. We often found ourselves staring at the dripping concrete side wall of the lock, only 18″ from our window.

What we liked on Avalon:

• the service and staff were great, going out of their way to ensure we had a good time and everything we needed – great sense of humour
• the entertainment was surprisingly good – a couple of local singer music nights that got us up and dancing on our tired feet
• the educational aspects – overall the quality of the tour guides and on-board speakers was excellent – we learned a lot about history, art, architecture and people
• wine was included with dinner
• happy hour every evening was great
• you can bring your own wine etc. on-board for consumption in your cabin
• a couple of theme meals e.g., German sausage with music/costume were well done

Suggestions for improvement:

• offer at least one spa day excursion, i.e., a half day visit to a local spa where you can sit and relax and soak those feet rather than walk, walk, walk
• the ship needs more public space(s) just to get away from the crowd and relax a bit
• at least one “river day” where you simply cruise and rest those weary feet
• security seemed lax at times, it looked pretty easy for anyone to walk on board and not be challenged while we were in port
• make it clearer up front that this is a “walking excursion” cruise and not suitable for people with mobility issues or weak bladders
• a little less detail – sometimes the tour guides were too detailed
• the white wine should be colder
• the tapas night was disappointing, nothing really appealed to us

Would we go on another river cruise? Not likely unless it was a more relaxed pace or a particular theme or region we felt called to.  We prefer the increased flexibility, comfort, relaxation and incognito privacy of the larger ocean-going ships with greater choice of dining times, locales to hang out in and more sea days.  Depends what you enjoy and are willing to pay for.

As I was praying for Poland, I heard the words: I have a special love for Poland, and if she will be obedient to My will, I will exalt her in might and holiness.  From her will come forth the spark that will prepare the world for My final coming.

St. Faustina Kowalska, Diary, 1732 – Divine Mercy in My Soul

Nothing could be truer based on all we saw, felt and learned while in Poland.  Everywhere we went the churches were filled with people praying or in Mass.  The grave sites in Poland are a marvel to see.  All spit, polish and decorated with flowers and even some burning candles.  The Poles honour God, their families, the Church and their ancestors.  It is a lesson for all of us.

We celebrated 15 Masses in 14 days on our pilgrimage.  Some of these were in the most hallowed of places e.g. in the Chapel of our Lady of Czestochowa.  Pope John Paul II on this shrine:

“Czestochowa is a special place for all Poles. Here stands the national shrine called Jasna Gora – the Bright Mountain.  This name refers to the light that dispels darkness.  The source of this light is the presence of our Lady in her miraculous image.  Faith of Our Lady’s protection gave us the strength to outlast and triumph over a terrible Swedish invasion, the Nazis and the Communists.  Poland has not perished nor will it perish because Poland believes, Poland prays, Poland has the Bright Mountain.

Communist Party authorities knew what Jasna Gora meant to the Poles. Cardinal Primate Wyszynski and the Polish episcopate initiated a national pilgrimage with the Black Madonna to visit every parish and community in Poland.  The Communist authorities tried to stop it by “arresting” the icon.  The pilgrimage continued with the empty frame for the next 25 years! The frame with no picture was a silent sign of the lack of religious freedom. This strengthened the resolve of the Polish people to pray fervently for its restoration. All Polish Catholics make the pilgrimage to Czestochowa.”

John Paul II, Rise, Let us be on our our Way, 2004

We saw it, we breathed it, we knew it.  Their example has strengthened our resolve not to take our Faith Nor our Church for granted.  We will try to be better Christians, better Catholics, better people.  Poland is the Spark.

Excursion to Versailles
Louis 13 ‎articulates his will in his personal hunting camp called Versailles. Louis 14 at 7 or 8 marvels at the little palace his dad has built in the forest swamp. After an unsuccessful insurrection at the Louvre, young Louis IV says he will built a great palace castle at Versailles to escape the city.  In 1660 he takes over a neigbouring noble’s castle and builds his castle over the next 50 years.

Louis 14 is a musician, an artist, a dancer dies in 1715. His grandson takes over until 1784. 1789 French Revolution, Louis 15 arrested. Versailles becomes a glorious museum to exhibit the splendour of France.‎ Used to be 850 but now down to 120 hectares. We enter on a marble staircase to the hall of assemblies with huge paintings. Then the hall of Hercules a huge vaulted ceiling fresco. Louis XIV attends Mass at least 4 times a day we learn. We move thru a series of rooms from Baroque to Rococo styling. We marvel at the Hall of Mirrors. We learn LIV was oversexed and had a series of health issues. Apparently he rarely bathed and smelt quite bad. Nevertheless he outlived all his children to die in 1715.

LXV liked art and certain women. More modest, he ends up paying the price for his grandfathers’ opulence as the French Revolution breaks out in 1789.

Morrison‎ Hotel
Marie humours me for a visit to the Doors Jim Morrison’s grave site. We find it but not that of Edith Piaf nor Amadio Modigliani. We take the metro back and do some shopping. We take a look in the Notre Dame de Travail church. Inside it is constructed with visible steel columns and arches held together with rivets. It was constructed by the men who built the Eiffel Tower.

We finish with a blow out group dinner in a busy street followed by some dancing to a great RandB group. We stroll an extra block to get one last view of the Eiffel Tower lit at night. Bon soir.

We say goodbye to the Avalon Artistry II. We drive through the rich agricultural fields and rolling hills of Luxembourg. ‎Used to have a big steel industry based on iron ore deposits. Now more people work in financial services or EU civil service. Global warming here in summer as hot as 40 deg. 120K French and Germans cross the border to work in LC each day. LC is built on several rock faces with many bridges connecting. What we saw was truly beautiful. We hop the TGV for Paris. Nous irons au Gare de l’Est dans 2,5 heures au lieu de 5 heures par voiture.

After 5 countries, 53 locks, 20 busses, 17 Holy Doors‎, 3 rivers. 2 trains, 1 ship, 800 km of water and 900 km of land, we arrive in Paris.‎ 12 million live in the metro area, 2.2 of which live in the city proper. Only 40% own a car. Apartments as small as 90 Sq feet rent for 500 euro/mo.‎ 37 bridges, La Sorbonne University has 350K students – it’s totally free except for a tax which students protest. We drive by St Sulpice Church where is buried Rene Descartes. 2.5 million rivets in the Eiffel Tower we learn and Gustav Eiffel was an engineer who built bridges too. We are staying in the Pullman Montparnasse Hotel – ooh la la!

‎We wander out for dinner and see a lady riding a bike in high heels (pourquoi pas?). After a good meal, wine and excellent service we retire exhausted but energized by the spirit of all the people here.

Day 11 – Bernkastel

On the Mosel River, 350 km navigable. One of the most northern grape growing regions – 9200 hectares on hills as steep as 68 deg! Riesling and some Elbling. Polish and Roumanian workers at harvest time. Bernkastel, 9000 residents, 2 million day tourists/yr. St. Michael’s Church Tower dominates.‎ ‎ Big wine festival in September. Linden tree-lined streets, vineyards in the distance and ancient castle above. We walk through the town and see a 600 year old house in mint condition.

Vinothek – wine sampling hall.‎ We sample over 160 types of Mosel wine. By 11 AM we have had a bottle each – and it feels perfectly normal!! We stop to kiss on the bridge and a truck driver waves. After shopping and lunch we go for a bike ride along the river over a bridge and back the other side. Then some more shopping and a hot tub. It has been a great day.

We sit down to dinner with Steve Madely (retired CFRA announcer) who is sponsoring the group, Lisa his partner and Betty and Glenn. We chat and find out Steve’s wife Gail passed a few years back. Now he and Lisa sponsor group travel tours and have a growing family of followers. 34 repeats on this trip. They are great hosts and get around to talk and eat with everyone. We finish with some German, Scottish and Irish folk music. We are all German, Scottish and Irish!!

Day 11 – Trier

We dock on the Luxemburg side of the Mosel in Grevenmacher. We learn that climate change – warmer temps are putting the Riesling grape at risk. Lux is the world’s richest country per capita. We take the Trier tour rather than the optional Luxemburg excursion. Trier is Germany’s oldest city founded by the Romans in 17 BC. Julius Caesar was here with his troops. Then the Frank’s, then the Bishops. 110K inhabitants. Karl Marx born here.

3 Major Roman baths, amphitheatre, sports ground, barracks, 4th century church, huge restored reception hall. Slaves tended to the baths working underground. All Roman citizens were welcome at the baths for relaxation.  Many former convents and monasteries are now functioning as student or seniors residences. Porta Nigra (north) ancient Roman entrance to the city used for defence.‎ We see the way of St James plaque and scallop shell symbol above a door.  Trier is on a route to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.

The Holy Robe relic (cloak) that Jesus wore before his crucifixion, is reputed to be in St. Peter’s Cathedral, thanks to Constantine’s mother Helena. We enter through the Holy Door with intention and marvel at the huge romanesque structure inside. It feels like home after the many cultural excursions we have been on this week.

We skip the optional excursion to Luxemburg city. We have a hot tub and soak up some sun. As we prepare to say goodbye to Germany it is with many fond memories, good feelings, laughs, photos and sore feet!

‎Day 8
We spend a glorious morning cruising the Main (pronounced mian) River. It is sunny and very hot. Green forested hills, red sandstone quarried rock faces, and everywhere people waving to us as we cruise by. ‎This is river cruising!

In the PM we visit‎ a 600 year old Franciscan monastery. Started as a statue to Mary, pilgrims came. Capuchin monks built a church in monastery in 1633. During the construction, building materials mysteriously disappear and then are returned by good angels. So became known as the Angels Monastery. Now 3 Franciscans run it. Many locals come on pilgrimage and after Mass want food and drink. So they now offer accommodation, food and drink to individuals and groups. Have their own vineyard. We sample the wine, yum. We light a candle at Mary’s grotto.

‎At night we have a special tapas dinner in the forward lounge. Less tapas and more German in style, we enjoy the evening and dance on the ballroom floor as we leave.

Day 9‎ – Rudesheim
We enter the Rhine river on a cloudy, rainy morning. Much wider here, we see significant industry but also larger houses with their own small vineyard in front. This town is the‎ 2nd biggest tourist attraction in Germany 3 million visitors/yr. Siegdried’s Music Museum – largest collection of data driven self playing musical instruments in Europe: 1780 founded.

I film the ‎Weber Maestro – orchestra in a box playing. We sample the famous coffee with brandy at the Rudesheimer Schloss restaurant. It is right on the world-famous Drosselgasse St. Hildegard’a abbey sits high above.

Romantic Rhine: 70 km from Rudesheim to Koblenz. Series of small towns, ancient castles nestled in a steep valley gorge with vineyards. 4 or 5th century followed by Frank’s and Charlemagne. Crusaders learn how to build better castles and bring this skill back here in the 13th century. Many castles destroyed during Napoleon’s time. Later rebuilt by wealthy purchasers.‎ We are castled to death with dozens of majestic structures to marvel at. Meanwhile dozens of high-speed trains, barges and ships go by like crazy – one of the most picturesque spots we have ever seen.

Wurzburg
Palace of Catholic Prince Bishops. One of the most magnificent Baroque palaces in Germany. Finished in 1780 after 60 years of work. Burnt out in 1945 but now preserved‎, 340 rooms. Beautiful 750 Sq. Meter fresco vaulted ceiling with images from 4 continents.‎ Stucco worker and Italian painter designed reception room with painted and gold trimmed images on white background – baroque at its best. 400 year old Flemish tapestries e.g., Venetian Carnival. Beautiful mirror room.‎ John Skilton, US Army restores everything after bombing.‎1.5 million litres of wine are made and stored in the palace’s basement caverns.

Wurzburg 140K pop. Roentgen invents x-rays here. Romanesque Bishops Cathedral of St Kilian holds 6000 people.‎ Constucted from 780 to 1946. We wonder down the main street crowded with people and find a pedestrian bridge over the Main River lined with saints.

Rothenburg medieval town. Walked the 400 year old wall, the cobblestone streets and admired the “half-timber” houses. Truly an amazing people place with towers, churches and outdoor cafes. We both found the souvenir shopping good. It was a gorgeous day, we sleep 10 hours!

So you’ve been on a few ocean cruises and wonder what’s the difference going on a river cruise?

The cost is much higher at $400/day or more vs $200/day or less. However this includes all the wine and beer you want at dinner and many excellent guided tours.‎ The ship is smaller with far fewer passengers – only 91 on our cruise. it’s easy on and off, no monster lineups. The scenery is stunning – green forests, verdant hills‎, picturesque villages. At one point we feel we are out in the field as we can smell the manure. Entertainment is pretty good – speakers on local history and singer and dancing.

Not much room in the cabin and much less public space. It can be hard to get way in a quiet spot. ‎Dinner is served, lunch and breakfast is buffet. There is only one restaurant but also a lounge where coffee and cookies are always available. They also serve late night snacks in the ballroom and have happy hour daily. We find the food generally excellent. There are only 3 main cou‎rse choices instead of 5 but the quality is consistently high.

Then you can bring on board all the wine, beer and spirits you want unlike most major ocean-going cruise ships. The cruise is naturally very port intensive. If you stay back there is not much to do on board – a hot tub and some lounge chairs. They have bikes that you can use so we will have to do that before we finish this cruise.

All in all, less is more. (Part 2 to be continued after the cruise…)

Day 5
Prague Secrets walking tour: Nov 17 1939 Nazis close universities and send student leaders to prison/death camp. Nov 17/ communists beat Prague students.‎ 1991 Velvet Revolution. Dvorak becomes 1st conductor Czech Orchestra. 19th century building :HQ, Jesuit Monastery after Dominicans left. huge building took 140 years to build. Agnostic country but Prague youth attend Mass here due skilled Priest. Oldest cobble stones 1160. Patron saint of lawyers who looked after the poor. St Francis of Xavier statue on Charles Bridge. If you want your love to last, couples place a lock on a romantic place. King is thrown over the bridge by Church. Maltese Knights Order mill and residence. 1968 invasion of Czech by Warsaw Pact countries to quell “liberalism”. Czechs feared the reunification of Germany in 1990. Now they revere Germany and fear Putin. Kind Charles IV monuments everywhere. St Nicolas Church in lesser town now a Baroque museum. Slovaks separate from the Czechs in 1993. “Pravda Vitezi” – Truth Prevails in coat of arms. Helena our tour guide does a great job. We have time for 1 more Urquel before hitting the road for Nuremberg.

We arrive at the Avalon ‎Artistry II on the Main-Danube Canal. We walk on, receive a complimentary drink and are in our cabin within 15 min. Later we have a great dinner – perch. The wine flows, we feel great. In the morning we awake with the sun peeking under the shade. Our cabin is small but comfortable.

Day 6
Bamberg, the Rome of Germany, is built on 7 hills.Was not bombed during WWII. 50% of residents are enrolled Catholics. World Heritage site. River Falls steeply so 20 water wheel powered wood mills at one point. We walk up the narrow streets to the‎ Domberg Cathedral and Bishop’s Palace. We see St. Michael’s Monastery further up.

Day 3
We walk from our apartment to our hotel – it’s 5 blocks only. We are checked in and unpacked by 10h00. Dave heads for the pool.‎ Later, we head out for the Charles Bridge. We walk across the Vltava River on the Manesuv bridge and make our way to St. Nicolas church, a baroque beauty. We walk back across the Charles pedestrian bridge lined with statues of saints. The views are stunning. We find some wine and beer and retreat to our room. Walking on uneven cobblestones is tiring.

We connect with the cruise group and meet up with our friends Glenn and Betty Clarke. We have dinner at a nearby restaurant and retire early

Day 4
Guided tour. ‎Stalin Bust memorial being repaired. Prague Castle, residence of Prime Minister. 9th century, later Hapsburg palace. One of the biggest in the world, owned by Boston family. Cathedral of St. Vitus 1300, Hapsburg crypt. Painted glass window by Mucha. Hapsburgs lived here from 1508 to 1800. Maria Theresa, Austrian became queen. 16 children including Marie Antoinette. Hapsburg Catholics clash with Protestant majority setting off the 30 years war. Velvet revolution, Vaclav Havel brings Czech into NATO.

Puppet play ‎at old town astronomical clock, 1410. Revamping of mechanism over the years. Time is depicted in 3 different ways. Lower clock with saints. Jewish ghetto. 13th century Synagogue. $8K monthly rental apartment above Gucci store.

St James Church – wow!! Church of our Lady Before Tyn wow! I notice astronomer Tycho Brahe’s headstone in front of the altar. We walk through the Jewish quarter and site of the 1941 deportation to the nearby Terezin death camp. The streets are crowded with many nationalities speaking softly. Back at our hotel we run into friends Mike and Susan Issa from Ottawa who just happen to be in Prague right now. We walk a few blocks together and wish them a good trip.

In the evening we have a great Czech dinner (pork, duck) with the Clarke’s at the Kokolvone restaurant and lots of Urquel beer.‎ A great end to a great day!