We knew we were getting closer to the coast when we saw this fresh boiled octopus called pulpo in Spain. Dave had tried a few pieces with pasta a few days back and quite liked its mild almost beef like flavour. It’s very tender and not at all rubbery. This was a big one that he hauled out of pot for us to photo as we passed through Melide pop. 8000. Melide specializes in pulpo a la Gallega. It was too early in the day to stop and have some! We had started our third last day on this pilgrimage in good spirits, well rested from the private room accommodation in Palas de Rei. So rested I think we now decided, no more refugios – too many people, no privacy, noise, etc.. Our goal today would be Arzua, some 26 km away. We would cross 5 river valleys and walk on peaceful woodland pathways. The sun was peaking out again. The purpose of those curious elevated structures in the gallery above we were told was to allow harvested crops to dry. It must rain here a lot we surmised. It was surprisingly uncrowded on the path today. It was a very peaceful. However when we stopped in a bar restaurant for lunch, a very funny thing happened. Marie and forgotten her sunglasses the previous day at another restaurant stop. Suddenly she spots a man wearing them. When she pointed this out to him, he immediately took the glasses off and gave them to her saying “I was bringing them to you.” Such is the Camino! We continued on walking 20 km today and took the bus the last 6 km to Arzua pop. 7000. We checked into the Hotel Suiza. It was a real treat staying in a hotel with maid service and a restaurant. We awoke the next day and walked about 20 km through eucalyptus shaded paths with palm trees and fresh blooming flowers. We then hopped the bus for 18 km and stopped for the night in Lavacolla, just 9 km from our destination. We spent that night at the Hostal Restaurante San Paio. We had the Galician style menu del dia with wine for dinner. It was delicious and a very good deal. As we drifted off to sleep we wondered what it would be like walking into Santiago de Compostella tomorrow. Nothing could stop us now we prayed.