Crossing the Pacific Conclusion – Cruising to Honolulu

We were now about to now cross the Pacific on the beautiful Celebrity Edge. It was to be an 18 day cruise with 13 sea days; the longest cruise we had ever been on. We would cross the Equator and International Dateline, visit New Zealand and Tahiti before pushing on to Hawaii.

The Edge was launched in 2018 as the first of a new class. It carries 2900 pax with a crew of 1300. At 130,000 tons it is slightly bigger than the Solstice with about the same number of pax. Everything on board is different. It represents Celebrity’s attempt to move up from a “premium” cruise line to a “luxurious” one. In our view they greatly succeed. This was to be the best cruise we have ever gone on!

Take a look at the Edge

We decided not to opt for the drink package due its high cost. Instead, we brought on many bottles of wine that were duly detected by scanning but never objected to by the security staff. We were going to celebrate our 40th anniversary again and also Dave’s birthday. This excuse seemed to work with them.

The shows on the edge were fantastic. We would alternate between the 7 and 9 pm shows depending on our dining arrangements. We saw large cast stage shows, comedians, singers, instrumentalists, acrobats and even a hypnotist. Many of the entertainers were from Australia and were very talented.

The port stops were Bay of Islands and Auckland in New Zealand and Raiatea, Moorea and Papeete in Tahiti. In New Zealand we wandered around, enjoyed the local sights and bought some great wine. In Tahiti we took an outrigger boat excursion, Dave went snorkelling and we went to several little beaches that were absolutely beautiful and later picked up some souvenirs. We did not particularly like Papeete the capital as it was jammed with traffic, noisy and too darn busy. Moorea and Raiatea were simple, calm and stunning. Sadly, our ship was too big to put into Bora Bora, the jewel of Tahiti. Hightlight was probably the quiet little beach stop in Raiatea – calm, uncrowded, pristine.

The food of course is the best part of a cruise. The Edge has 4 separate dining rooms, 4 or 5 specialty restaurants and of course the Oceanview Cafe buffet. We frequented almost all of the restaurants. The service, food selection and quality were truly amazing. Best meal was filet mignon and lobster tail in the Finecut Steakhouse on Dave’s birthday. Our anniversary dinner in Eden was very memorable too.

The best part of this cruise were the 13 sea days. With nothing to do but relax and enjoy the ship’s amenities, we got quite into a calm state that lasted for weeks after the cruise. Never bored, we found somewhere on deck to relax before we went for our next meal. The walking track was a long one and well laid out. The hot tub was never crowded. The pool was large and inviting. The last night there was an all white party on deck with live music. The 7 piece orchestra on board was consistently 5 star. Our only complaint was the wifi would often drop out as we moved around the ship forcing us to log in again.

The cruise ended in fantastic controversy. Approaching the sacred and pristine Na Pali coast off Kauai, our ship’s captain Matt decided to do a 360 Deg turn. We were very close to shore to start with. In our view, as the 1000 ft long ship spun around, we went well within the 1000 foot minimum distance that ships are supposed to keep from shore.There was nothing unsafe about it but it did stir up the sea bed and visually disrupt the sacred nature of the area. Captain Matt said after that he was not aware of the 1000 foot limit. After an investigation, the State of Hawaii recently decided not to pursue charges and I speculate that Celebrity promised not to do it again. It was surreal and stunning how close we were. It gave us something to talk about and boast that we were there lol.

We disembarked in Honolulu, rented a car and drove to the north shore of Oahu for some fresh shrimp and a swim. We stopped at the Dole Pineapple Plantation and then headed back to the airport. Had a very smooth flight home via Vancouver. What a vacation! Thanks for travelling it with us!

Trip By The Numbers

  • Solstice cruise to Sydney 4525 nm = 8,380 km
  • 13 nights, 4 ports, 9 sea days
  • Edge cruise to Honolulu 6319 nm = 11,702 km
  • 18 nights, 5 ports, 13 sea days
  • Total distance travelled by air from Ottawa to Mexico to Singapore to Honolulu to Ottawa 29,000 km
  • Total trip distance 49,077 km
  • Circumference of earth 40,077 km
  • Days away from home counting Mexico 138
  • Our longest and best trip ever
  • Keep on travellin’ folks!

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Crossing the Pacific 3 – Sydney

Perhaps not the liveliest of versions, however non-Aussies like us need to see the lyrics to better understand this great folk song. e.g. a billabong is an isolated stagnant pond, a jumbuck is a male sheep. There was a proposal to make Waltzing Matilda Australia’s national anthem. No wonder. When we saw it performed live on board Edge and it brought tears to our eyes.

The view from our aft balcony as we pulled into Sydney, Australia. Were we were in for a nice surprise. Sydney, we were about to discover, is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. We are no longer city people and so have fairly low expectations about cities. Hence our surprise. The beauty of Sydney is focused on its magnificent harbour, its many surrounding beaches and an active outdoor lifestyle that its over 6 million inhabitants enjoy.

Leaving Solstice, we got an Uber to our 54 floor hotel, Meriton Suites in the heart of the commercial district. We could not figure out how to operate the elevator to get to the 39th floor. Duh. It turns out you must place your room card on the scanner and then an elevator is assigned and pre-programmed to take you to your floor and not to any other ones. Welcome to new hotel security technology! Our room was spacious and well equipped with a kitchenette. If we ran out of anything, we called down and it was delivered in minutes. We highly recommend this superb chain!

We were overlooking George Street which is like Toronto’s Yonge and Bloor Streets combined, jampacked with restaurants, high end shops, food stores and coffee bars etc.. The first day we walked around the magnificent St. Mary’s Cathedral, the iconic Opera House, visited the Aquarium and then did some shopping. We found everything we needed including delicious Australian wine very cheaply priced, just footsteps away. There were dozens and dozens of of Asian style restaurants filled with patrons. The streets were teaming with people, many of them young and Asian. It felt exciting to be there.

Next day Marie’s colleague from nursing school, Maureen and her husband Joe visited us. They took us on a delightful harbour cruise and a walkthrough the historical Rocks district near the harbour. Then we went for a lovely seafood lunch in a pub, thoroughly enjoying the company and the conversation. They live in a suburb of Sydney and took the transit system train back and forth easily. Sydney has a an extensive tap on, tap off transit system and an LRT right down the middle of George Street that works!

Next day we hit the beach. We hopped on a tap on, tap off ferry for a 20 min. ride to Manly beach. We walked around the shops and beach area marvelling at the surfers everywhere. We continued exploring the ocean path and found a tranquil little beach protected by large rocks. It was absolutely gorgeous there! We had a dip followed by snacks and beer in a sunny surf-side restaurant. Truly a great place to live and play we were thinking as we headed back by boat to our hotel.

The next day we went to Bondi Beach which you have probably heard of. It is very long with even bigger surf. Lots of surfers again, people exercising, walking dogs, sunning on the beach, happy. On the way home our bus stopped at the mall just before a tragic mass stabbing was to take place inside. We were shocked next morning when we head the sad news of this.

Perhaps the highlight of our whole visit was attending a standing room only, solemn Mass at St. Mary’s Cathedral. There were 2 Archbishops, a huge men’s choir, and dozens of priests and lay in the processing party. We chatted with a parishioner who had come to Sydney from Malta and noticed a lot of young families there. It was a great send-off before embarking on our next cruise later that day.

St. Mary’s Cathdedral

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Crossing the Pacific 2 – Cruising to Australia

We explained in an earlier blog why we like cruising so much. Click here to read this post. We waited a long time to go on this trip and were very excited to be boarding a ship again. It was our 40th wedding anniversary year so we were going to celebrate it. After 5 wonderful days in Singapore we were now ready to cruise!

We boarded the 2850 passenger Solstice, our 19th cruise and 3rd on Celebrity. Built in 2008 it is the first of its class, still very elegant but showing its age. It has a traditional look and feel which many guests prefer versus the newer ultramodern Edge class ships Celebrity has now deployed. It holds 2850 passengers, has a crew of 1250 and is thus a mid sized ship by today’s standards.

Celebrity Solstice our temporary home for 13 nights

We had an aft balcony which is at at the end of the ship overlooking the wake. This is a premium cabin however, we did not use the balcony as much as we thought we would for reasons I will explain. Typical in Asia, boarding was very slow and took about 90 minutes. There were 3 or 4 holding areas each with their separate line up. The difficulty is immigration controls. In order to board the ship, it was mandatory to have an electronic visa for Bali and a travel authorization for Australia. Some people didn’t have these in advance and this caused delays.

We were very happy with our cabin steward whom we met immediately – I Gede (pronounced I g’day). He was very attentive to our needs and constantly greeting us. I took to saying g’day g’day to him. He laughed. I regret we did not take his photo. People from Bali, Indoneisa we found to be the happiest. smiliest people we have ever met. Bali was to be our first stop.

After 2 sea days of enjoying the food and drink (we had a drink package) we were ready for some exploring on shore.

Bali is one of many Indonesian (pop. 150 million) islands but is unique because its religious heritage is Hindu while the rest of the country is Muslim. We took an excursion into town (Kuta), walked to a beach and then did some shopping. We marveled at the hundreds of offerings on the street to please the Hindu gods, the beauty of their temples and the low prices in the stores! The other thing we noticed was the heat. Very hot, impossible to be out in during early afternoon. We were happy to return to the ship and cool down! Would love to go back.

The next day was Easter Sunday. While there was no religious service on board, Celebrity provided live large screen viewing of the Easter Mass in St. Peter’s Square celebrated by Pope Francis. After that we retired to the Oceanview Cafe and enjoyed seeing all the colourful cakes the chefs had baked.

Two more sea days and we would be in Australia. One of the best meals we had on the whole trip was in the Tuscan Grille. This is a specialty restaurant for which an upcharge applies. We celebrated our 40th anniversary in style there. I think I had lobster tail and filet mignon, yum. Marie enjoyed the calmari and a delicious white fish. Later, G’day even made us two towel swans! We felt caudled by the excellent service. Did we mention the wine?

Out and about on the ship, we found it a little crowded at times. The walking track weaved its way thru lounge chairs and the main dining room food and menu got boring after a couple of nights there. What we really did like was the range and high quality of food in the Oceanview Grill (buffet). We liked the complimentary continental breakfast room service, the specialty coffees, tea and cookies in the El Baccio cafe and the peaceful atmosphere and simple food at the spa cafe. Wherever we went, the service was impeccable. Staff really try hard on Solstice to please you and they succeed immensely! We did not use the casino at all but enjoyed the shops and some of the nightly shows. We were never bored.

We stopped in 3 ports in Australia: Darwin in the North, Cairns and Airlie Beach in Queensland before docking in Sydney. Each place was beautiful and unique in its own way. Darwin is a relatively new city having been rebuilt after Cyclone Tracy completely destroyed it in 1974. A nice little lagoon for swimming followed by some great shopping was in order. The small town of Palm Cove near Cairns had a great little beach, was very quiet and relaxing. Finally Airlie Beach in the Whitsunday Islands was fabulous for shopping, swimming in the lagoon and people watching. The Whitsunday Islands are truly an amazing place to go sailing in their calm waters. In Queensland during the season we were there, there is a high risk of being stung by highly poisonous jelly fish. Hence, each of these beach towns had an ocean lagoon for safe swimming which was protected by a mesh screen to prevent the “stingers” from getting in. No problems.

So why did we not use the aft balcony as often as we thought we would? The first reason was it was too darn hot! We were sailing in a south easterly direction most of the cruise so the sun was on our west facing balcony from 10 am onwards. At a few degrees from the equator it was scorching out there with no shade! The second reason was soot that landed on our balcony each day after being blown out the ship’s exhaust stacks. It was a black particulate matter that fouled our balcony each day and night. I think because of the SE trade winds we were constantly deluged with the problem. G’day took to washing it off twice a day. Many others around us experienced the same issue. Towards the end of the cruise, the problem went away and it got cooler. Celebrity gave us a small future cruise credit (discount) for the inconvenience.

After 13 nights on the Solstice we were now ready to get off in Sydney for a 5 day stay before our next cruise.

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Crossing the Pacific 1 – Singapore

So how big is the Pacific Ocean? Bigger than the planet Mars. The world’s total land mass would fit in the Pacific with 17,000,000 sq. kilometers to spare. It covers 32% of the planet’s surface area and 46% of the Earth’s water surface. That is pretty darn big!

We crossed it twice. Once by air west to Singapore and then by cruise ship east to Hawaii via Australia. Google says it was more than 46,000 km of travel from our home near Ottawa! The circumference of the world is only 40,000 km. Hard to believe!

We loved it. After spending the winter in Nuevo Vallarta MX, we flew to Singapore. The flight from Los Angeles was 17.5 hours but on one of the best rated airlines in the world. We took some melatonin, slept for 4 to 5 hours and arrived relatively refreshed – 2 days later. Dave had lots of leg room, Marie not so much. The attendants on Singapore Airlines actually run, they are so intent on providing good service.

Our first impression of Singapore was the hundreds of freighters at anchor in the bay. Next the quick processing through immigration and customs. Singapore like many other countries now requires an Electronic Travel Authorization where they vet your passport details in advance. We were through and on our way by taxi within 30 min. of landing.

Our apartment hotel was just a few blocks from Orchard Road, the upscale shopping street of Asia and right next to a Buddhist temple. Our room had a small balcony and kitchenette. It was adequate but noisy at times. We were treated well by the hosts there.

After picking up some groceries, we walked along the picturesque Singapore River and found our way to China Town. The shopping was great as well as the people watching, the colour and the beer.

Over the ensuing 5 days we discovered the extensive underground transit system and used it to explore the Gardens by the Bay, the Marina Bay Sands Hotel, Little India, the Botanical and Orchard Gardens, endless shopping concourses and numerous outdoor food hawkers selling every kind of (cheaply priced) Asian food. We particularly enjoyed satay (chicken skewers with peanut sauce). Yum!

Gardens by the Bay

Did we mention how hot it was there? At just a few degrees above the equator, it was impossible to go out between 1 and 3 pm. Everyone uses a sun umbrella – one lined with a thick lining. We bought one!

Near the end of our stay we went to Raffles Hotel for a Singapore sling iconic experience!

We moved on to see the Merlion monument- half fish half lion across from the Marina Bay Sands.

Finally we attended Mass at a local church. It was a beautiful experience.

Our impressions of Singapore: exotic, beautiful, rich, modern, hot and very Asian! We were now ready to catch our cruise ship to Australia.

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Trekka Round the World

This is the fascinating story of sailing round the world in a 20 foot long sail boat over a 4 year period in the early 1950s. John Guzzell from Victoria, BC, built the boat and sailed her solo from east to west right around the globe. This was in an era when there was no internet, GPS etc. making it all the more an amazing accomplishment.

His love of people and places comes thru clearly making it a great read. Imagine yourself out on a small sailboat for up to 60 days at a time without any sighting of land or contact with other people.

So how does he do it? He uses paper charts and navigation techniques learned from his dad to make his way thousands of miles from island to island. But it is not that simple. He has to know the best port to enter into, the tidal times and deal with ever changing wind conditions that could dash him into rocks.

He does make use of a small outboard motor at times when there is no wind. He also has to drop all sails and ride out cyclones on several occasions. At night, the boat can actually sail and steer itself when the sails are lashed to the tiller!

All in all a fascinating first hand account of an amazing experience by a Canadian. Trekka held the world record as the smallest boat to circumnavigate the globe for a number of years. I rate this as a 9 out of 10 story even if you are not into sailing which I am not.

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Rosecrans vindicated at Chicamauga?

After reading various accounts of exactly what led to the creation of the fateful gap in the Union lines on the 2nd day at the Battle of Chicamauga, I am somewhat of the opinion it was not Rosecrans fault.

First of all who is Rosecrans and what was Chicamauga?

Major General William Starke Rosecrans c 1863

Major General Rosecrans (Old Rosy) was commander of the Army of the Cumberland on that fateful day Sept 20, 1863. A West Point graduate, he had worked his way up from 2nd lieutenant starting in 1842 in the Army Corps of Engineers. He was a civil engineering professor and superintendent of a coal company before rejoining the Union Army in 1861. At the Battle of Chicamauga he was in charge of 60,000 troops facing Confederate Major General Braxton Bragg who outnumbered him with 65,000 troops that day. He was generally recorded as the best general the Union had in the west and had just skilfully maneuvered Bragg out of Chattanooga with minimal losses.

Portrait by Kurz and Allison courtesy Wikipedia

The Battle of Chicamauga was fought over 2 days in Sept 1863 around the Chicamauga Creek in northern Georgia just south of Chattanooga, TN. As such it was the second deadliest of all US Civil War battles with 34,600 total casualties behind only the Battle of Gettysburg which had occurred just 2 months prior. We toured the Chicamauga site in 2012 and that was when I first learned of General Longstreet’s breakthrough and the splitting of the Union lines in the late morning of day 2.

The Snodgrass House around which Major General Thomas rallied his troops in the afternoon to fend off the Confederates after their breakthrough

Union General Thomas (who was to become known as “The Rock of Chicamauga” for his heroic stand later that day) was heavily attacked on the morning of day 2 by a superior number of Confed forces under Gen Leonas Polk (see above courtesy Wikipedia). He sends an aid, nephew Sanford Cobb Kellogg down the lines to the right seeking reinforcements to come to his aid. Kellogg asks Brig Gen Brannon if he would help out and move his men north to help his uncle George out. Brannon naturally reluctant to move without Rosecrans approval, awaits confirmation.

When Kellogg reaches Rosecrans headquarters, there is a naturally quite a bedlam of activity. By some reports Kellogg makes it known that Brannon had already moved out which indeed was not the case. In a panic, Rosecrans dictates an order to fill the unauthorized (and unexisting) gap to Brig Gen Wood to “close-up and support Reynolds” divisions. “Close-up” in military jargon means to link up with while “support” means to get behind of. So in fact the order was slightly ambiguous in the actual context. The order was written down by a secondary aid verbatim as Rosecrans primary aid was busy documenting other orders and would have known that Brannon had not moved out and so would have stopped the order from being issued.

So the order reaches Wood who looks left and sees Brannan is still there so there is no way to link up with Reynolds. But because he had been scolded publically by Rosecrans just that day for not promptly obeying orders, he decides the order must mean to pull back and go behind Brannan and come up behind Reynolds in support. This he does creating an unintentional gap in the Union lines that the order was meant to prevent from happening in the first place. 20 minutes later Longstreet’s Corps by chance is ordered to charge the Union line at the exact spot where Wood had just pulled out of and hence the massive breakthrough.

Courtesy Wikipedia

After thinking about this, it seems to me Rosecrans was given false information by Kellogg and possibly others which led to the debacle. Rosecrans was dismissed as a result, rather unfairly in my view.

For a somewhat supportive view of this please read the following report about the irony of this whole affair here.

So why have I bored you with the details of this? Because I made a brief presentation on this subject at our most recent National Capital Civil War Roundtable study group. See their website info here.

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SS Athenia

SS Athenia in Montreal 1933 (photo courtesy Wikipedia)

The Steam Ship Athenia was a transatlantic passenger liner that worked between the UK and eastern Canada from 1923 to 1939. It was the first UK ship sunk by Germany in WW II. My Aunt Joan was a passenger on the ill fated crossing and survived. 117 passengers and crew did not including Joan’s brother Alan. My cousin Anne tells the story:

“82 years ago today, on September 3, 1939, the first day of World War II, the British passenger ship “SS Athenia” was torpedoed in the North Atlantic. My mother Joan, age 6, her brother Alan, age 7, and their mother Dorothy were aboard that ship.

They had boarded 2 days earlier on Sept 1 in Liverpool. They had been visiting family in England. My grandfather Edward sent word for them to return home to Montreal early as there was talk of war starting up in Europe. And 2 days into their journey – on Sept 3, war was officially declared between Germany and England.

The ship was overcrowded and behind schedule because they had taken on extra passengers. The captain was sailing in a zig zag pattern to make up time. The windows had all been painted black to avoid detection at night. But still this was an elegant passenger ship and at 7 pm that evening, most passengers were having supper in the dining room.

At the same time a German U-boat, U-30, captained by Fritz Lemp surfaced and spotted “ Athenia” in the distance and misidentified it as a merchant ship. He fired 3 torpedoes and missed the target on the first and third but hit the ship with the 2nd. Lemp submerged so he could get closer to fire again.

On board “Athenia” there was an explosion and the ship began to list. When U-30 surfaced again they were close enough to realize they had mistakenly fired on a passenger ship but Lemp fired again and missed and then submerged and fled the scene. He did not admit his error for years and it was not officially acknowledged by Germany until after the war.

Back on “Athenia” the overcrowded lifeboats were launched. Joan, Alan & Dorothy made it into a lifeboat together but in the ensuing chaos, young Alan was lost. Joan and Dorothy, like many of the other passengers suffering from hypothermia & frost bite after spending the night in the cold North Atlantic were eventually rescued by the Norwegian ship “MS Knute Nelson”. Alan’s body was never recovered and for years afterwards whenever an orphan boy was found (as often happened during the war) my grandfather would travel to see if it was Alan. The loss of Alan was a wound that never healed in their family.

My mom died this week (on Sept 1, 82 years after boarding “Athenia”) and although she was very ill, this event was very much on her mind. She wanted to talk about it and about Alan. I sincerely hope that their spirits have finally been reunited and that the Alan shaped hole in her heart has finally been filled.”

Here is a link that lists Allen Vincent as a casuality of this monstrous war crime. Thank you Anne for telling the story.

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Losing the Signal: the BlackBerry Story

This book written 8 years ago tells the remarkable story of the rise and fall of Research in Motion, the company that invented the BlackBerry smart phone some 20 years ago. It is a detailed account of the partnership between Co-CEOs Mike Lazaridis the engineer, and Jim Basillie the business executive, that changed how we live and work on a global scale. A truly fascinating Canadian story!

I came across it after watching the BlackBerry movie (2023) which I highly recommend. The movie is a humorous factual and fictional account of the amazing Blackberry story based on Losing the Signal. I watched it 3 times and will likely watch it again. The movie uses a lot of foul language, so beware.

You can watch this movie in its entirety (and many others) for free on CBC Gem.

Back to the book. I found the the BlackBerry story intriguing for 3 reasons. Firstly, I have been the addicted owner of 3 BlackBerrys over the years and was absolutely hooked on them for over 15 years. I got my first one in government in 2006 or 7 (a Quark I think). In 2010 I purchased the BlackBerry Bold and in 2015 the BlackBerry Classic which I still use as a wifi machine! Secondly, I went to the University of Waterloo and graduated in chemical engineering 6 years before Mike Lazaridis started there in electrical engineering. For 2 years I lived within a few blocks of where this story was to take place. Finally, I worked for a small high tech start up firm for 3 years (SHL Controls) and experienced the personal pressure, uncertainty and excitement that working for a fragile start up IT shop entails. I identify with the story,

The most amazing aspect of the story for me is how two (Canadian) men with totally different skill sets, interests and backgrounds, could work so congruently together for over 10 years to innovate and keep the corporate sharks like Motorola, Google, Bell South, US Robotics, Palm Pilot etc. from squashing them. Where is Waterloo Ontario anyways? Things begin to unravel when Apple brings out their iPhone in 2007 and Google licenses their Android operating system in 2008 to any handset manufacturer. The future market for non IOS or Android phones was dead for all intents and purposes. But as the book describes in great detail, it took BlackBerry management another 3 to 4 years to admit this and get out of the business. The company has since morphed into a software and services company (like Balsillie was seeking to do when he was pushed out along with Lazaridis in 2012.). Lately it is really struggling.

The authors McNish and Silcoff are veteran business reporters who know how to get the facts out clearly, Based on countless interviews of staff and management including the Co-CEOs, the book won several awards. Somewhat exhausting in detail at times, a very thorough account of the Lazaridis and Balsillie years that, when the end finally comes, it almost made me cry. Note both men are billionaires and have since sponsored several scientific and leadership institutes and think tanks since “retiring.” Overall a riveting account of a great Canadian business story, 10/10.

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Book Report -The Quest for a Moral Compass

This is a remarkable book. Not because the author tells us what is right and wrong but because he explains what it is to be human, what humans should be and the relationship between the two, according to the world’s greatest philosophers, theologians and moral thinkers over time. If you have ever wanted to better understand what Plato, Aristotle, Augustine, Aquinas, Erasmus, Rousseau, Nietzsche, Mohammed, Marx, Lao Tzu, Hegel, Locke, Kant and Buddha to name a few were trying to say about who we are and how we should live, this is the book for you.

Malik exposes their contributions, contradictions, strengths and weaknesses in layman language using well reasoned argument and humour to get at the way they saw how humans are and the way (at least some of them) thought we ought to be. The way we think about moral issues has changed over time due to social change, history and different cultural perspectives. Think about the moralistic changes you have seen in your own lifetime. We are polarized between those that subscribe to rules based morals as in the monotheistic religions and those what believe we can get at what is right and wrong by using reason and science. Another trending view is that there is no objective moral code at all and that all morals are simply a matter of personal “preference”.

And he writes this book in a way as you read it you think, OK this is his favorite thinker e.g., Hegel, wow. But then he goes on in equally exuberant detail about the next thinker e.g, Nietzche only to expose his limitations and shortcomings too. Malik has no favorite thinker it seems – it is the depth and breadth of his coverage which is simply amazing.

In reading this book I discovered a couple of interesting subjects I wish to follow up on. The first is that of the largest successful slave rebellion the world has ever seen led by Toussaint L’Ouverature in 1696 Santo Domingo (Haiti). A book written years ago about this subject is now high on my list to read: The Black Jacobins. Author Malik says this rebellion was the kernel of anti-colonialism still unfolding today and is as equally as important as the French and American revolutions.

A more recent subject Malik addresses was a book written about dozen years ago entitled When China Rules the World. According to the author Martin Jacques, China is a “civilization” not a nation state, is firmly grounded in its history, has the world’s most competent government with the strongest support and has very different views of how “democracy” should work. We tend to judge China using our western lens assuming that it will become more western. Not true according to the book’s author. It is the world that will become more Chinese as China (and India) assume more global leadership and control in the not too distant future. Perhaps China is not the rogue state we have been led to believe it is. Intriguing indeed.

Just a couple of examples of how stimulating and enjoyable a read this was for me. I rate The Quest for a Moral Compass 5 full stars and will likely read it again.

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Le Chemin de Saint-Jacques 2013

The Chemin de Saint Jacques – 800 km from Le Puy to Saint Jean Pied de Port

In June 2013, I walked the first 200 km of the Chemin de Saint-Jacques (St. James Way) from Le Puy to Conques in France. It was more difficult than our first Camino de Santiago in Spain on account of the hilly terrain plus I was now … 3 years older. This route, also called the GR 65 – is part of the long distance walking route Grand Randonnée network and part of the European long distance paths. Sometimes I think I was born on the wrong continent since I love walking so much.

I picked up my credential booklet at the magnificent Cathedral in Le Puy. It identifies the carrier as a bona fide pilgrim entitled to stay in the various gites d’etape (equivalent to the refugios in Spain).

I also purchased a copy of an excellent Michelin map book with suggested daily walking goals for this route, as well as the Miam Miam Dodo guide book to eating and sleeping.

So there I was all ready and anxious to head out on a 10 day walking adventure. I attended the early morning pilgrim Mass at the Cathedral in front of the Black Madonna and then said goodbye to Marie over pastry. I started hiking up the steep hillside leading out of Le Puy with pauses to catch my breath.

I remember gasping for air as I continued to climb out of Le Puy. This was going to be a tough one I thought. Not sure if I am going to be able to complete this. It is the familiar ring of doubt one feels everyday on a long hike such as this. I was carrying my pack on my back but already thinking it was too heavy. However, I was soon to be rewarded with some of the most gorgeous scenery anywhere France – the central rural plateau region.

Here are a few pictures of my very first day.

I managed to make it that day to a small town called Montbonnet, a distance of about 16 km and checked into my first gite d’etape (pronounced jeet deh tap). There were 7 other pilgrims there, all women as you can see below!

I had completed my first day safely but was feeling very exhausted. Thanks be to God!

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